Installation Information

This guide is intended to give general information about installation of fireplaces. Fireplace Products accepts no responsibility for any issues arising from use of this guide. You should use a qualified engineer to install a working fireplace. Failure to do so may invalidate your warranty and violate building regulations.

You should use a HETAS qualified engineer to install a solid fuel fireplace.

You should use a Gas Safe Register qualified engineer to install a gas fireplace.



Fitting tiles into traditional inserts:

• Line the tiles up on the floor, making sure the patterns match up correctly
• Turn the tiles over so they are face down
• Use strips of wide masking tape to stick the rows of tiles together at the back
• Place the insert face down on the floor
• Run a bead of black heatproof silicon sealant or black fire cement around the outer edges of the tile frames
• Place each set of 5 tiles firmly into the appropriate frame and press firmly into the sealant
• Run beads of sealant along the tile bars
• Position the tile bars so that the bolts line up
• Gently tighten up the bolts – take care not to overtighten as this will cause the tiles to crack
• Lift the insert up and check the tile pattern is lined up correctly
• Put the insert to one side for the sealant to set

 

Fitting a fireplace hearth:

• Place the hearth onto a sand and cement bed, making sure that
• The sides of the hearth are equal distances from the chimney edges
• The hearth is central to the opening of the fire
• The rear edge of the hearth is against the plaster line of the chimney
• Use a spirit level to make sure the hearth is level from side to side and front to back
• Please note that stone can absorb colour from the sand and cement mix – you may need to use washed white sand or place a plastic membrane between the hearth and the concrete, depending what the hearth is made of
• Gas fireplaces require a channel behind the hearth for the gas supply pipe

 

Fitting a concrete fire back and preparing the fireplace opening:

• Cover the hearth with an old blanket
• Place the insert on top of the hearth
• Place the surround against the insert to that it lies flat against the chimney
• Mark out on the wall the area which needs to be opened up
• Open up the required space
• Cement the base of the fireplace opening so that it is level with the hearth
• Place the concrete back into the fireplace opening, making sure it is lined up to where the insert will sit
• Back fill with sand and cement. Loose rubble can also be used to back fill
• When you reach the top of the fire back, flaunch to 45 degree angle
• Position the lintel, with the flat side facing forward, onto the top front edge of the fire back and fix in place with sand and cement
• Brick up above the lintel with sand and cement, making sure you seal all around the front and top of the fire back
• If there are any rough areas above the fire back within the chimney space, you should smooth them off to ensure air flows freely up the chimney

 

Fitting cast iron inserts with wooden surrounds:

• Place the insert on top of the hearth in front of the fire back
• Place the surround against the insert
• Use a pencil to mark the position of the surround on the wall
• Remove the surround
• Measure the thickness of the outer surround leg, then mark it on the wall inside the outline you drew previously
• Use screws to attach 2” x 1” battens to the chimney breast, making sure they are within the inner outline
• The battens should be the full height of the surround legs
• Place the surround against the wall, making sure the battens are positioned within the legs
• Use screws to attach the surround to the battens at the top and bottom of the legs
• Now use either fire cement or fire rope (1”-2” thick) to seal the cast iron insert onto the fire back

 

Fitting Combination fireplaces:

• Measure the outside of the cast back and mark this in pencil onto the chimney breast (from the top of the hearth)
• Remove bricks from the marked out area until the opening is large enough for the cast back to fit into
• Install a lintel above the fire opening
• Stand the fireplace on the hearth
• Use a pencil to mark the outline of the fireplace onto your wall
• Remove plaster from the area you have marked out
• Once you have reached bare brick, drill holes at the sides of the fireplace to line up with the screw eyes
• Firmly attach the fireplace to the wall using rawl plugs and screws
• Back fill behind the cast back (access though the opening at the rear) using either vermiculite or rubble mixed with sand and cement
• Flaunch at a 54 degree angle to the back of the chimney space
• Plaster around the completed fireplace
• Use a damp cloth to remove any cement or plaster deposits from the cast iron
• Immediately dry the cast iron or it will rust

 

Electric Range Cookers:

Electric cookers of any description should not simply be plugged into the mains via a three pin plug. The cooker should be on its own circuit with a double-pole isolating switch in an accessible position, feeding a connecting box behind the cooker. The cooker should be connected via an appropriately sized cable directly related to the power of the cooker to a cooker control unit, ideally with an on/off switch and neon indicator to show when the cooker is switched on.
Switch off the power to your cooker circuit before removing your old appliance and strip and prepare the ends of the cables from your new electric range cooker to connect to the cooker control unit. The terminal outlet box in the cooker control unit is usually easily accessible and you should simply be able to replace the wires from your existing cooker with the wires for your new range cooker. If you are replacing like-for-like in respect of electric output, there is no need to notify Building Control or have your new installation approved, however if there is an extra load on the radial circuit it is in your best interests to consult with a local electrician.



Gas Range Cookers:

When installing a gas range cooker, it is best to start off by finding out where the mounting brackets are. They may or may not correspond with the existing brackets (depending on whether you are upgrading your cooker to a much broader range cooker), but it is important that the oven is fixed securely to prevent it from tipping over. You also have to ensure, even if you have a floor standing installation, that the oven is level both from side to side as well as from front to rear.
First, turn off the gas supply and examine the back of the oven to locate the gas inlet. Make sure that the size matches the existing gas supply line and rub pipe sealant on both ends of the fitting before screwing the rigid end of the gas supply pipe into the gas inlet on your new gas range cooker. Tighten the connection with an adjustable wrench to make sure it is secure. Turn on the gas tap and check the fitting for leaks, making any adjustments to the connection as necessary. Then light the pilot to ensure that your installation has been successful. If you have any doubts about whether your gas range cooker installation has been successful, please consult with a gas fitter to ensure your safety when using your new gas range cooker.



Dual Fuel Range Cookers:

With dual fuel range cookers, you simply follow both sets of instructions above. If you are using alternative types of fuel (ie LPG) check with the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure that your new range cooker is compatible with this type of fuel and how it should be installed. Again, if you have any questions regarding the installation of a new range cooker in your kitchen, please consult with a recommended tradesman.